MAHLE North America HQ - Farmington Hills
Plastipak - Plymouth
University of Detroit Mercy - Detroit
Detroit Zoo - Royal Oak
Forever 21 - Multiple
Huntington Banks - Multiple
Roush Industries - Livonia
Beaumont Hospital - Royal Oak
Maurice's - Lansing
Secretary of State - Warren
Hines Park Ford - New Hudson
Garrett Popcorn - Novi
Village Apartments - Dearborn
Livonia Housing Commission
Hampton Inn - Saginaw
Hyatt Place - Livonia/Auburn Hills
Taylor Housing Commission - Taylor
Crystal Creek Assistant Living - Canton
500 Michigan Avenue - East Lansing
Rivers Edge Apartments - Saline
Glacier Place Apartments - Laramie, Wyoming
Pheasant Ridge Apartments - Casper, Wyoming
Black Rock Bar/Grill - Canton
Granite City - Northville
Plum Hollow Golf Club - Southfield
Tony Sacco's Coal Oven Pizza - Hartland
O'Toole's Irish American Bar/Grill - Royal Oak
YoBerry Frozen Yogurt - Novi
PF Changs - Ann Arbor
Lockhart's BBQ - Multiple
Too Ra Loo - Rochester
Muldoon's Bar - Utica
One of our managers generally comes out to measure the project for a precise drywall count. We measure for full sheets of drywall to minimize the number of joints. We also work with you to understand your specific requirements for bathrooms, shower areas, windows and other areas.
Stocking: Prior to the commencement of work, we arrive with the materials that will be required to complete the project.
Hanging: The hanging process is the most important part. Our "hangers" attach drywall using screws and glue to the walls. After finishing, we will take the scrap drywall to a nearby dumpster or other area you designate. Then we will sweep and clean the area.
The "mud" process involves three steps:
Step 1: Tape coat - Our finishers will use taping mud to apply the tape to the joints and angles.
Step 2: Cover/Bed coat - This is the most important coat as it is the bulk of the finishing. (It also takes the longest for the mud to dry). One side of each angle will be mudded. Butt joints (where non-recessed edges of the drywall meet) will be floated out farther than where the drywall has met with bone edges.
Step 3: Finish coat - This is the final step in the mud process. The other side of the angle will be mudded and another coat of mud is added.
Sanding: The "sanders" will then come in after the mud work is completed and sand down the mud - making it smooth. At this point, you are ready for your painter to prime the walls.
Note on Paint Priming: If you run your hand across the surface of the drywall, the mudded areas will feel like glass while the areas of raw drywall (not mudded) will feel like cardboard. This is because the sanding process eliminates all of the stipple on the mudded parts of the drywall while the areas without mud haven't changed.
The priming process is where you have the opportunity to ensure a more consistent stipple between the two surfaces. Getting a more consistent stipple is done by rolling the primer with a heavy nap paint roller on those areas that have been mudded - this gets stipple on the mudded areas so that both the mudded and unmudded areas will have more consistency.
"Spotting" is the term we use for identifying and fixing areas of imperfection in the drywall. It is a standard part of any drywall project. After your painter primes the drywall, we encourage you to have your trim carpenter trim out the project. (This is the standard way 98% of most construction projects are run because the trim carpenters can put a few dents in the drywall from time to time).
Then, after the trim carpenter is done, we come out and "spot" or touch up the drywall for any imperfections that we may see.
Now that your finished with the new drywall or drywall repair you are on to the next stage in the construction process:
And the walls are ready for the color of your choice :)